Tom Ford presented a collection that was anything but “spring-y” as this King of Fashion swapped the old fashion show business model for today’s “buy now, wear now” concept. He delivered a fall/winter collection of patchwork leathers, color-blocked furs, tweeds, and velvets perfect for cool weather element dressing. Menswear rounded out the collection giving buyers and customers alike access to what you’ve got to have NOW.
There wasn’t much that wasn’t AWESOME in the collection presented by Thakoon Panichgul last week. An exciting presentation of rich fabrics in earth tones, there was no mistaking that fall 2016 was on display here. Great knits, strong shirts and jackets were layered over skirts, pants, dresses and jeans to create easy, wearable stylings that reflected his trademark utilitarian aesthetic. This was sportswear with a bit of street creed at its best.
Beautifully tailored and delicately crafted, Jason Wu’s SS17 collection had a spring theme with floral appliqués and fine gauge, dusty colored lace dresses. But the pieces also had a nice transitional feel with merino pants and long sleeves. His sheer tops and dresses were sexy and sophisticated. Soft draping, architectural cuts and skilled tailoring gave his dresses a thoroughly modern feel with many of the options so striking that you’d hardly be able to wear them twice without people noticing.
The right soundtrack is very important for any runway show, and Gurung chose a recital of the poem”Phenomenal Woman” by the late great Maya Angelou. That was the way Prabal Gurung chose to conclude his spring runway show, and it seemed to speak as much to another upcoming collection of his as to his general outlook on the Gurung customer. That spirit was on hand – Gurung’s ladies were strong, confident and have places to go. This showed in the silhouettes her chose – like the luxe cashmere boucle sweater, yanked off one shoulder, trousers fluttering with a cuff of ostrich feathers and some umpteen stunner beaded gowns. The dresses, tops and skirts were slashed to reveal flashes of skin.
Time to check Netflix or Hulu for the 1990 David Lynch film “Wild at Heart,” which stars a carefree Laura Dern and Nicolas Cage. Joseph Altuzarra had it on the brain when designing his spring collection. With David Lynch as inspiration, Altuzarra’s collection was all about romantic and kitschy garments with a little darker pulsing just under the surface. “I wanted the collection to feel happy, vibrant and erotically charged,” the designer wrote in his program, and the clothing obliged. A mix of flirty ruffle dresses in cherry prints and the tougher python print, hit the runway. There were Nipped jackets and slit skirts in gingham which seem perfect for lunching with the gals, and those teensy flouncy bralettes in crepe de chine paired with a ruffly skirt should be the uniform for your Bahama vacay.
British designer Jenny Packham (she’s a favorite of the Royals) lined up all sorts of glamor in her Sunday afternoon show and within her 31-look collection, there was something for everybody. For rocker girls who party there was a formal gold illusion beaded top with wide-leg embellished trousers, or an uber blinged-out black and gold gown with wide sleeves. A surprising little floral embroidered tulle shorts outfit and a fiery red chiffon mini with a ruffled hem and blousy sleeves, was just the thing for jet-setting hippie girls. Mothers of the bride and maybe queen mothers will swoon for several satiny pale pink jobs along with an elegant, albeit restrained, auburn skirt and shirt ensemble. But we liked the last gown, an off-the-shoulder Calder-inspired print in black and ivory for the Duchess of Cambridge herself!
At Victoria Beckham’s morning show it was all about clothes. Beckham, who is known for her bodycon silhouettes loosened up significantly with garments that skimmed gracefully rather than clung. Stars of the show included crushed summer-weight velvet numbers in lilac and white, and crinkly washed satin dresses that could easily go from day to night. Some ensembles had bra tops and paper bag waists along with matching soft bags that punctuated the ease of this lineup. Beckham herself called it, “a collection with an assured free spirit.”
After his two fashion shows, Wang had a wall open up revealing a huge party space behind the runway, complete with the guilty pleasures we all share — a 7-Eleven truck filled with candy, chips and other munchies, a McDonald’s truck churning out fresh-cooked cheeseburgers and fries, a graffiti station and a D.J. spinning tunes and more. Prior to this massive party came his eponymous spring line, which featured menswear-inspired fabrics like the blue-striped shirt material used for strappy bralettes, paired with shorts and a pinstripe blazer with the sleeves ripped off. Sport was another key influence here, and some of the best looks were the gray scuba-like dresses with candy-colored trim. Post this the designer released a surprise collection – a special collaboration with Adidas featuring 84 unisex pieces of apparel and footwear which included hoodies, track jackets, shorts, and more.
The designer’s concept this time was #tommynow – Tommy Hilfiger’s take on the “see now, buy now” phenomenon. The “wow” reaction had to do with the fact that Tommy didn’t just mount a runway show – he created a full carnival, complete with fried food, spinny rides and a Ferris wheel on a pier at South Street Seaport. Debuting the new “Tommy x Gigi” capsule collection was the runway hottie herself – Gigi Hadid. The looks were classic Tommy — midriff sailor shirts, fisherman’s knit sweater dresses, denim cutoffs, oversize satin bombers and a massive furry hoodie emblazoned with an anchor on front — all very nautical and hyper American, which Tommy does oh so well.
Australian designer Nicky Zimmermann’s runway was set in a space where separate areas were cordoned off by opaque screens (to create an underground effect, we suspect) and was all about a hipster’s take on modern rumpled elegance. There were feminine frills, tiers, ruffles and lace galore in a palate of cream, lilac, steel blue and dusty peach. A fabulous bathrobe coat was done up in washed out florals, there were wide trousers in soft French stripes and patchwork checked silk blouses to suggest “rogue swagger,”. A swashbuckling pirate vibe ran as an undercurrent to all the romance here, heightened by plenty of corsetry. Ahoy!
It was a welcome return for Oday Shakar, who on Friday morning returned to New York Fashion Week after a two-year hiatus. Shakar’s regal collection, meant to reflect his Arab-American heritage by fusing Western and Middle Eastern influences, was v-e-r-y good. From ultra bodycons in feather light micro suede to billowy glam kaftans, flowy chiffon and organza pleated gowns – it was all about Spring meets Fall. Lovely prints conjured ornate mosque windows and details included patterned metallic trims. Shakar used color judiciously — lots of white and pale blush here but when he went for it, he went big, as in the case of a vivid lemony gown and an ethereal number in teal. We’d hardly be surprised to see some starlet wearing Shakar’s work on a red carpet.
Free-spirited global travelers who don’t hold back inspired Desigual’s lineup, which turned out to be, arguably, the most joyous romp of the first official day of New York Fashion Week. There were maxis in flowing textured fabrics, colorful, barely-there bikinis and loads of separates in between. Much of the collection boasted embroidery and embellishment galore, including beaded animals, plant and ethnic motifs. Models wore army green bomber jackets with flowers crawling up the sleeve, butterfly-embroidered rompers, fabulous denim jackets — some encrusted with rhinestones — vividly colored striped knits, peasant skirts and tie-dye looks. Add to the fun mix: sequin-encrusted berets, embroidered army caps, and even one topper that appeared to be a crown of butterflies.
Which was your favourite collection from #NYFW?
Let us know in the comments below 🙂